Japan: A Family Journey Through Contrast and Beauty
Jody Rolfe, My World Travel Co.
Our Tokyo chapter began with the spiritual calm of Meiji Jingu Shrine, where ancient camphor trees whispered wishes on wooden ema plaques and the city’s energy softened to a hush around us. With our local guide Roy leading the way on our first full day, we explored neighbourhoods we might never have found alone, uncovered hidden gems, and began to better understand Japanese people and their culture—it was the perfect way to get our bearings in this remarkable city.
Across our four days in Tokyo, teamLab Planets was a definite standout, an immersive digital art experience that felt like walking through a living dream. We strolled through the shrines and museums of Ueno Park, got pleasantly lost in Shibuya and along the very cool side streets of Cat Street, and ended our evenings in tucked-away underground bars where vinyl spun and time seemed to slow.
In total, we logged 81,318 steps, 55 km through the city’s soul, and it was worth every single step.
Hakone & Mt. Fuji: The Mountain That Revealed Herself
An early morning pickup with our local guide, Roy, set the tone for what would become a truly extraordinary day. Roy guided us through the many faces of Mt. Fuji, from forest-framed shrines to the vibrant pink gardens of Fuji Motosuko Resort, and on to breathtaking viewpoints stretching from hilltops to lakesides. At first, the mountain remained coy behind a veil of cloud, but by mid-morning she revealed herself in all her glory—an awe-inspiring moment that felt almost theatrical.
The journey itself became part of the experience. As we ascended towards the iconic Stage 5, we drove along Japan’s fascinating “Melody Roads,” where specially grooved sections of highway transform the vibration of your tyres into music.
At just the right speed, the road plays the traditional tune “Fuji no Yama,” a charming tribute to the mountain. It’s moments like these that offer a deeper understanding of Mt. Fuji’s cultural significance—why it holds such a central place in Japanese identity and reverence.
We spent two nights in a traditional ryokan in Hakone—an experience not to be missed. Sleeping on tatami mats, soaking in an outdoor onsen, and enjoying an exquisite kaiseki dinner while dressed in yukata offered a genuine immersion into Japanese culture. It was a serene and memorable way to connect with the heritage and traditions of this remarkable region.
Kyoto: The Heartbeat of Tradition
Kyoto was, without question, my favourite city in Japan — its magic felt most deeply in the quiet of early morning, before the crowds took hold. Fushimi Inari Shrine is famous for its thousands of densely packed torii gates, winding through the forest and stretching across the mountain. We started our ascent at 7:30am, already joined by plenty of other visitors hoping to capture that elusive empty shot. As we climbed higher, the crowds began to thin, and the viewpoint over southern Kyoto made every one of the hundreds of steps worthwhile.
The following day, a little wiser, we set out at 6am to photograph the iconic Yasaka Pagoda in near stillness before continuing on to Kurama-dera Temple, where the mountain setting offered a serene, almost meditative calm. Kyoto’s Zen Buddhist gardens were another of my favourite discoveries — places of extraordinary stillness and simplicity that invite you to slow down and reflect. Whether it was the refined setting of Nanzenji, the beautifully composed gardens at Ryokan Yachiyo, or the famous Zen rock garden at Ryoan-ji Temple, each offered a different expression of Kyoto’s quiet spiritual beauty. The Silver Pavilion was equally captivating, with its understated elegance and peaceful grounds leaving a lasting impression.
The Philosopher’s Path, a gentle 1.8km walk beneath a canopy of trees, was another highlight, lined with charming cafés and artisan shops that invite you to slow down and linger. It’s a place that rewards unhurried exploration, and one where I wished I had allowed even more time to browse the beautifully crafted and uniquely local offerings. Kyoto’s shopping was also a real delight, with such an interesting mix of quality stores, vintage clothing shops, and smaller boutiques that made wandering the city feel even more rewarding.
For dining and nightlife, Pontocho Alleyfinl note was a standout, with its wonderful food scene and atmospheric lanes. And for something a little different, Hello Dolly was a great vinyl bar that added another delightful layer to Kyoto’s charm.
Kyoto is best experienced with a little strategy. Dividing your time by district helps avoid unnecessary travel and allows you to immerse yourself more fully. Focusing on areas such as Northwest Kyoto, Southern Higashiyama, and Northern Higashiyama makes for a more relaxed and rewarding experience in a city that has so much to offer.
Shimanami Kaido: Cycling Between Islands
The cycling journey from Onomichi to Imabari was the soul of the trip. With e-bikes making the climbs and long bridge crossings effortlessly accessible, we were free to fully take in the ever-changing scenery—industrial shipping yards, fragrant lemon orchards, quiet beaches, and the awe-inspiring 4km Kurushima-Kaikyo Bridge stretching across the Seto Inland Sea.
There was an unexpected sense of peace and freedom that unfolded with every kilometre. Away from the rush of cities, the rhythm of pedalling, the sea breeze, and the openness of the landscapes created a rare stillness—one that made you feel completely present in the moment.
An overnight stay at Wakka added a special touch to the experience. Our dome tent, complete with thoughtfully designed amenities, paired perfectly with simple pleasures like homemade ginger ale and refreshing local lemon ale. After covering 35km, it was the ideal place to rest and recharge before setting off to complete the final leg of the journey the following day.
Hiroshima & Miyajima: Solemnity and Wonder
Hiroshima’s Peace Memorial Museum is confronting and deeply moving—a powerful reminder of both humanity’s capacity for devastation and its enduring resilience. Walking through the exhibits, making paper cranes, and taking in the view of the A-Bomb Dome from the Peace Memorial Park was a quiet, reflective experience. Without the usual crowds, the stillness of the grounds allowed the weight of history to truly settle in.
The following day brought a shift in atmosphere on Miyajima Island, where the iconic “floating” torii gate and Itsukushima Shrine stood as elegant UNESCO-listed treasures rising from the water. At Daisho-in Temple, a lantern-lined Buddhist complex tucked into the hillside, rows of small statues dressed in knitted red caps added a sense of warmth and quiet charm. Even in the rain, there was something undeniably magical about the island—serene, spiritual, and gently unforgettable.
Kanazawa & Shirakawa-go: Mountains and Gardens
Kanazawa offered a rich blend of texture and beauty, from the lively energy of Omicho Market to the timeless elegance of Kenrokuen Garden—one of Japan’s most celebrated landscapes. Wandering through the preserved streets of the Higashi Chaya District added another layer, with its historic teahouses and quiet sense of tradition.
The journey to Shirakawa-go came with the challenges of Golden Week traffic, but it ultimately became part of the adventure.
Leaving the car behind and walking 30 minutes through the surrounding mountains created a sense of anticipation that made the arrival even more rewarding. The UNESCO-listed gassho-zukuri farmhouses, set against a backdrop of distant, snow-capped peaks, felt almost otherworldly—both haunting and deeply beautiful.
Osaka: Family Fun and Final Flair
Osaka delivered a vibrant and playful finale to the journey. Universal Studios Japan was pure magic—from the thrill of the Harry Potter roller coaster to the immersive world-building of Super Nintendo World and the high-energy spectacle of the WaterWorld show.
Beyond the parks, the city unfolded in colourful layers. We wandered through the buzzing Shinsaibashi-Suji shopping street, explored Amerikamura’s eclectic vintage scene, and dipped into the pop culture heart of Nipponbashi’s anime district. The journey ended on a high at Osaka Aquarium, where the graceful movement of the whale sharks provided a moment of calm wonder—a perfect final note to an extraordinary trip.
Practical Elegance: What Made It Smooth
- Digital Suica card on phones was essential for trains, buses, convenience stores, and restaurants across Tokyo, Kyoto, Hiroshima, and Osaka.
- eSIM (Ubigi) kept us connected with flexible data plans.
- Visit Japan QR codes for each family member streamlined entry through immigration.
- Ordinary Car Shinkansen with reserved seats offered incredible legroom, cleanliness, and quiet—no need for Green Car.
- Kansai Pass covered 5 consecutive days of travel, including seat reservations at no extra cost.
- Cash was essential for smaller cafes, shrine areas, and some ticket booths.
- Early mornings were the secret to beating crowds at temples and shrines.
The Takeaway
Japan’s beauty lies in its contrasts: the chaos and calm, the ancient and the futuristic, the crowded shrine and the empty garden at dawn. We fell in love with Buddhist temples, the efficiency of the transit system, the extraordinary cleanliness of the toilets, and the way people queue fairly and efficiently everywhere.
This trip was more than a journey—it was a transformation. If you’re considering Japan, do it. The memories, the food, the people, the temples, the bridges, the mountains, and the quiet moments between it all will stay with you forever.
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